Light Weight Horse Equipment
By Bryan Martin
Horses can allow a hunter to access country and pack out large loads, which are beyond the reach of a foot or vehicle hunter.
Let’s start with the gear that goes on the horse. There are two choices regarding traditional packsaddles, wooden sawbucks and metal/wood deckers. A company in southern British Columbia, Canada, Custom Pack Rigging, makes plastic/metal sawbucks and deckers that are adjustable to the varying size and structure of mules and horses. A traditional, fixed, packsaddle is only designed to fit a certain type/size of horse, while these saddles can fit any type of animal with their adjustable angles, widths, and different bar configurations. They are quite durable too. Just make sure to keep all adjustment nuts and bolts tight. The company is owned by Kelly DeStrake and is located in Lillooet, British Columbia. Kelly also sells cinches, pads, lattigo, britchen, etc. to complete a saddle. You can get the britchen in either traditional leather or a new product called Biothane. The Biothane requires less maintenance, but I’ve found that really good quality leather lasts longer and won’t tear out as easily under hard use or should I say abuse. When using a packsaddle, I recommend using a large felt pad along with a wool blanket. Proper saddle fit, along with good pads/blankets will help your stock from getting sores. A complete saddle with all accessories will cost around $500.
Quality tack and accessories are the items that are most likely to break, causing many unwanted inconveniences during a hunting trip, so don’t cut corners here. Canadian Outfitter, Steve Rahn (Buckskin Outfitting) and his wife, Catherine, make some of the best products I’ve ever used. Their company is called Skookum Horse. They make all the accessories I’ll discuss, and I would recommend their handmade leather products over any production product because they last much longer. I prefer rope halter/lead rope combinations without metal snaps and buckles as they will not break if a horse pulls back and they are not too expensive ($20-30). For Bridles, it is hard to beat heavy leather with a snaffle bit. Regarding Britchen, I prefer a crouper, which goes under the animal’s tail, over the traditional style that goes around the horse’s rump. When going up and down steep hills, they keep the saddle in place better, they are cheaper and they don’t get as dirty with mud and horse crap. We’ve found that most animals will get accustomed to having something under their tail quite quickly. A good leather scabbard is my preference for the long haul as they last longer than nylon. I’ve used both nylon and leather saddlebags, but I prefer leather also as they last longer and look better. Nylon scabbards work well though if you want to cover the entire rifle’s stock and only use them once or twice/year. I’ve found the best way to carry a chainsaw for cutting trails is on the right hand side of a riding horse, using a rope loop over the saddle horn with a leather scabbard. Steve and Catherine make a leather scabbard which covers the chainsaw bar; it attaches just like a rifle scabbard. If you know of a custom saddle maker where you live, they probably make some of these same products, but there are not that many companies who make products designed for hardcore hunting applications. Steve and Catherine now make all of our accessories because they understand the needs of a horseback hunter, I know their products will last, and they can customize the products to an individual’s needs.
To keep stock from running away and getting lost during a hunt, there are several options. Because we do not have a lot of horse feed in our hunting area and because it would cost too much to feed hay, we need to let our horses roam and graze. Hobbles and front foot pickets work well for this. I like to picket a couple of the group leaders and hobble the others. At least half of the group will be wearing bells around their necks so that we can locate them in the dark or if they wander off. A picket rope is generally 25-50’ long and has a single hobble with swivel on one end and is attached to a metal picket stake or tree on the other end. Another option is a three leg hobble. With this method, another hobble is attached from a hide leg to one of the front foot hobbles. This third hobble is longer than the width between the front hobbles, but is still short enough that the horse can’t move very quickly. A third option is to get a portable electric fence unit. This works well, but I’d still bell and hobble the stock, because if the fence ever breaks, your stock could be spread out for miles. Custom Pack Rigging sells bells and a great pair of hobbles made out of Biothane and chain. You can take them apart and use them as a front feet picket also. Stan Walchuk, owner of Blue Creek Outfitting, British Columbia, makes excellent two and three leg rubber covered chain hobbles. One Company, called Wyoming Outdoor Industries, sells picket ropes, bells, hobbles and portable electric fences. Every year, I place a big order with Wyoming Outdoor and they have been great to work with. They also sell saddles, packsaddles, all accessories, and a multitude of camping equipment.
Tents which are light enough to pack for long distances, easy to set up, and that keep you warm, dry, and comfortable are a necessity. For an outfitter base camp, traditional, canvas wall tents, using a fixed wooden or aluminum frame work well, but they are not ideal for remote spike camping. Montana Canvas, in Belgrade, Montana, makes some of the best products. They make the traditional outfitter wall tents with aluminum frames, and they also make tents out of a light weight product called Relite. It is about 1⁄3 the weight of Cotton Canvas, is tougher and will not rot, mildew or absorb water. It’s only downsides are that hot sparks will melt holes in it much easier and it does not “breathe” as well as canvas. You also have to seam seal their tents before using them. I’ve used some for 6 seasons and they are still almost as good as new. If they ever get torn or burned, Montana Canvas can easily repair them for you. My favorite tents they make are called the Spike III (12.5’ x 12.5’) with 4’ walls and one 8’ center pole. They look like a square Tipi with 4’ walls. The 4 outer poles attach to the tent’s corners and the center pole goes in the middle. They come standard with a door, window, 4" stove pipe hole, floor, and aluminum frame. I order them with the optional fly, as it adds warmth and weather protection. In mild weather, the tent is fine without a fly. For stakes, I’ve found that 10-13" steel/galvanized spikes work the best. The complete tent, with fly, poles, stakes, and rope fit into one bag; it makes a good top pack (50-60 lbs). When you get to your camp site, you don’t have to cut any ridge poles, etc. This tent is good for 2-3 people plus some gear. If you want a lot of room or a tent for 3+ people, they make the Kenai (10’ x 20’) or the Denali (12’ x 22’). These are just like the Spike III, but with 2 internal center poles. They also make several smaller tents, the Bangtail Range Tent (7’x10’x10’x10’) or (10’x12’x12’x12’) or the Spike II (10’x10’ with 3’ walls). All their tents can be customized: 3 different colors (I prefer their tan colored Relite), accessories and options. On our new tents, I had them sew loops around the wall/roof seam every couple feet. We’ll use these loops for weaving a rope through so that we can hang dry wet clothes. Costs vary from $360 to over $1,200 with all accessories.
Another tent option is the Tipi Tent made by Kifaru. When combined with their light weight, collapsible Stainless Steel stoves and pipes, this is by far the lightest option for a wood stove heated tent. Their 4 man Tipi is good for 2 people and their 8 man is good for 3-4 people. Other sizes are their 6 and 12 man tents. Weights for the complete stove, pegs and Tipi vary from around 10-20 lbs and cost $1,000-1,200 with a stove, depending on the size. Make sure to seam seal these tents before using them or they will leak. And you’ll need to pack some type of ground cloth to keep things clean as the tents don’t have a floor. In nicer weather, to save weight and for convenience, I just pack a backpack style tent. The best tents I’ve found for such applications are the Hilleberg Tents: Nammatj 3 GT, Keron 3 or 4 GT and Nallo 3 or 4 GT.
For a portable camp stove, I’ve been using a folding camp stove made by Butch Ellis, Ellis Manufacturing, from Nebraska. The stove is made out of 20 gauge rolled steel and comes with 4" collapsible pipe. The stove and pipe weigh 35 lbs and the stove folds to about 2.5" thick and it costs $290. We’ve used them for 6 seasons and they still work well. Simms, Bozeman, Montana also makes a collapsible stove, but I have no experience with them. Another light weight stove that I will use this year is the Little Amigo, made by Riley Stove Company (Sold by Montana Canvas). They are not collapsible; they are made of Galvanized steel, which is light weight and durable. The legs, stove pipe and accessories (water heater and shelf) fit into each stove. Total weight of this stove plus all accessories is 22 lbs and it will fit into a pannier. Cost is around $235 for the set. If you are looking for a really heavy duty steel stove, I’d recommend a Pannier/Stove combo made by Chad Smith, Back Country Accessories, Vernon, British Columbia. They cost $450 a set and work well.
Traditional pack boxes and panniers are made out of wood or canvas. Now, you can purchase pack boxes made out of injection molded plastic and panniers made out of a rubber pack tarp type material. My favorite boxes are made by Pokiak Plastics, Fort Saint John, British Columbia. They come in two sizes; I prefer the larger size (kitchen pannier size). Both Custom Pack Rigging and Back Country Accessories make excellent boxes too. The price of any of these boxes is around $160-200. I like them because they are waterproof, tough, light weight in general easy to work with. With any pack string, I also recommend one or two soft panniers made by Montana Canvas. They only cost around $125 a set and hold a large backpack or duffel/side. Because they are made out of rubber, they don’t absorb blood or water. Montana Canvas also makes a Riding Saddle pannier which I use if I’m short on horses, have a lot of meat to pack or don’t want to bring a pack horse along on a day hunt. They work much better than strapping some bloody meat to the side of a saddle. When not using them on the saddle, I use them as a top pack, filling one side, and then tuck the full side into the empty side.
Other accessories that you’ll need are lash ropes and/or diamond ropes with a lash cinch and pack tarps. I like the rubberized Montana Canvas tarps or the coated nylon variety sold by Wyoming Outdoor Industries. Traditional canvas tarps are difficult to keep dry and clean, plus they can tear more easily on rough/brushy trails. When you get to your camp spot, tarps work well for covering gear, saddles and tack. Other, optional equipment to consider are light weight cots like the Go-Cot by Barney’s Sports and roll-tables, folding chairs and sleeping bag covers by Montana Canvas and Wyoming Outdoor Industries.
If you don’t own horses, but want to hunt with them, your options are leasing/renting, purchasing or going on an outfitted hunt. If you want to learn more about horse packing and/or where and how to purchase them, there are several books and clinics available. The best packing and horsemanship book I’ve read (lots of pictures) was written by Stan Walchuk. Stan is an experienced horseman, packer, and hunter. He still holds the World Record Archery Stone Sheep and is the only person to ride east to west across Northern British Columbia, Canada. He also puts on clinics for people who want to learn about horses and packing. Steve & Catherine also host similar clinics. Both are reasonably priced and you’ll learn a lot in a few days. These courses are unique because most other courses are through a guide school, which are too long for most people or through a Dude Ranch, which are not normally hunting oriented. If you have the patience, time, and money to own your own horses/mules and/or go on a guided hunt, you’ll be able to access some great country. Safe riding.
Manufacturers & Dealers:
Skookum Horse: www.skookumhorse.com - Steve Rahn and wife, Catherine (250) 459-7772
Pokiak Plastics: www.geocities.com/pokiakplastics - Trent Dunn (250) 785-6503
Custon Pack Rigging: www.custompackrigging.com - Kelly DeStrake (877) 772-5744
Montana Canvas: www.montanacanvas.com - Curt Heinert (800) 235-6518
Wyoming Outdoor Industries: www.wyomingoutdoor.com - (800) 725-6853
Ellis Camp Stove: www.elliscampstove.com - Butch Ellis (308) 432-9582 or (308) 432-3637
Blue Creek Outfitting: www.bcoutfitter.com - Stan Walchuk (250) 569-3423
Backcountry Accessories: Chad Smith (250) 542-1016
Kifaru: www.kifaru.net - Patrick Smith (303) 278-9155