Sharpening Systems
By Bryan Martin
Knife Sharpening
I ended Part I of Trophy Care talking about knife options. Now is a good time to finish up knifes by discussing knife sharpening options. There are more gadgets on the market than I can keep track of. I’ve tried a few of them, but always end up going back to the more old fashioned way of keeping a good edge on a knife – with a flat stone, with or without an angle guide system. Some people can put a perfect edge on a knife with one or two flat stones, without using an angle guide. It takes practice, a good eye and good feel. For most people, it takes a lot of time to master this and most of you probably have other things you’d like to spend your time doing. I would consider myself only a fair to decent knife sharpener with the old method, so I’ll review a couple systems nearly anyone can quickly learn and effectively use. They require some practice and skill, but are very effective for creating and/or keeping a good edge on your hunting knife.
Sharpening Systems
The two systems I like are the Edge Pro and Lansky. These are the two best systems I’ve found and/or had the chance to use. Most of you have probably heard of, or even used, the Lansky system. It is relatively inexpensive ($30-60, depending on stone options) and can be purchased at many sporting good stores and through mail order companies. They come in a light weight and relatively compact plastic carry case, which holds 3-4 stones, the metal blade clamp, metal rod guides, and honing oil. There is enough room in the case for two other items I always add, a couple of paper towels and a black Sharpie marker.
Lansky System Tips
The Lansky comes complete with instructions, so I won’t go into too many details here, but will mention a couple of other tips. After I attach a metal rod to one of the stones, I lay the unit on a hard, flat surface and bend the rod as necessary so that it makes a straight line with the edge of the stone. Do this with all the stones you’ll be using before starting the sharpening process. Make sure to use oil on the stones; use the paper towel, periodically during the sharpening process to wipe off oily, metal residue. Re-oil stones as necessary. Depending on the condition of the blade, start with a coarse stone and end with a fine stone. Make sure to alternate which side of the blade you are sharpening to keep an even edge. When you are finished, drag the knife edge backwards over a piece of leather or stiff cloth to help remove metal burrs.
The Lansky blade clamp and guide has four different angle holes that the metal rods slide through. I’ve found that most hunting knives work well with the 20 or 25 degree holes. I try to find the angle that most closely matches the factory edge or you’ll spend a lot of time shaving off metal to create a new angle.
Edge Pro Sharpeners
Edge Pro Inc. makes the highest quality knife sharpening system I’ve ever used. I have the Apex Model ($135-190, depending on accessories). It is similar to the Lansky, yet very different. It is made of high quality Stainless steel and plastic and comes in a convenient carry case. While not as compact as the Lansky, it will put an edge on any knife in a hurry.
Instead of using oil, use water on the stones. Like the Lansky, start with the coarse stone and end with the fine/harder stone. They also make a Pro Model, which is designed for commercial use. If you like quality knifes and keeping them razor sharp, I’d highly recommend the Edge Pro products. If you don’t want to spend the money on an Edge Pro, then you should get a Lansky. The other option is to send your knife away each year to a professional sharpening service.
Sharpening Tips
Before I begin sharpening a knife, especially a new one that I’ve yet to sharpen, I color the edge of the blade with the marker, so that when I begin to sharpen the blade, I can tell what part of the edge I’m removing. I make a couple of light strokes, which removes some of the ink. If I’m taking off ink only along the edge, then I’m using too sharp of an angle. If the blade edge still has ink on it, but I’m removing ink from higher up on the blade, the angle is not steep enough.
Field Sharpeners
Neither the Lansky nor Edge Pro is practical for carrying in a backpack. For years I used the diamond rod, brass handled, Eze-lap product for touching up my blades in the field. It has served me well and is still a good product, but when I received the custom knife set from Dave Kauffman, he recommended his field sharpening kit ($50). It is a bit heavier than the Eze-lap, but if you take out the coarse metal stone and just carry the double sided stones, it is relatively light. It does an excellent job of touching up a blade. With some time, you can actually put a good edge on a bad blade, which is difficult to do with other “field-use” products.
There are also a wide range of compact, sharpening stones and flat diamond hones available. They are relatively inexpensive and will touch up an edge in the field. I recommend these types of products over the ones where you just drag the edge through some preset roller or carbide cutters. If you really have trouble using a flat stone, then go ahead and use one of these gadgets, just don’t expect a really good, long term edge. I wouldn’t recommend using these products on a custom knife either.
For those of you who really detest sharpening knives, then scalpels are a good alternative.
Saws
A bone/wood saw is one item you don’t want to be without, especially on a backpack hunt. It serves two main purposes: cutting the antlers or horns off the skull and cutting wood for fires and shelter. The lightest weight and most compact saw I’ve used is the Gerber Exchange-A-Blade ($20). They come with an interchangeable bone and wood saw. They are great for basic use, but not hard use. The next saw Gerber makes is called the Hunter’s Bone saw. Instead of a folding blade, it has a sliding blade and a plastic handle. It is stronger than the Exchange-A-Blade, but only comes with a bone blade, not both. Neither of these two saws will last a lifetime of hard use and abuse, I’m on my 3rd saw, but they serve a good purpose for the backpack hunter. The next step up is the Gator Exchange-A-Blade. It has a rubber coated metal handle and interchangeable/replaceable blades. It is a strong unit, similar to the plastic handled unit, but slightly larger and heavier. The final Gerber saw I’d recommend is their metal, t-handled Pack Saw. One side of the blade is for wood, the other is for bones. Both of these last two saws are well made and will last a long time. If you plan on doing a lot of bone and/or wood cutting, I’d recommend a saw called the Wyoming Saw ($30-40). There are two models: an 11 1⁄8" blade and an 18 1⁄2" blade. They basically look like a hacksaw and are offered with two different, replaceable blades: a wood and a bone blade. The Wyoming saw breaks down into a convenient case and while not as light or compact as the folding Gerbers, it is more comfortable to use, especially for big jobs. Just like knives, there is not one perfect saw. None of these saws are very expensive, so I’d recommend getting a light weight one for backpacking (sheep, goat, and deer hunting) and a heavier duty model for horseback and day hunting bigger animals (moose and elk).
Having a sharp knife and the right saw can save you valuable time field dressing and caring for your next trophy, whether you are deep in the back country or a few feet from your truck.
Good hunting!
Manufacturers & Dealers:
Lansky: www.lansky.com; (702) 361-7511
Lansky Sharpening Systems
Edge Pro Inc.: www.edgeproinc.com; (541) 387-2222
Edge Pro Apex Sharpening System
EZE-LAP: www.eze-lap.com; (775) 888-9500
Model M - Round Diamond Sharpener
Gerber: www.gerbergear.com
Gator Exchange-a-blade (metal handle)
Pack Saw
Exchange-a-blade (plastic handle)
Hunter’s Bone saw (plastic handle, sliding blade)
E-Z Game cleaning combo kit
Wyoming Saw: www.cabelas.com
Standard saw, 11 1⁄8" blade with sheath: $30-35
Saw II, 18 1⁄2" blade with sheath: $40
Extra blades